Introduction: Pedaling Through the Pacific Northwest’s Island Paradise
There’s a moment when the Washington State Ferry pulls away from Anacortes and you catch your first glimpse of the San Juan Islands rising from the Salish Sea that stays with you forever. I’ve cycled routes across three continents, from the steep switchbacks of the French Alps to the endless horizons of Australia’s Great Ocean Road, but few experiences match the magic of island-hopping by bike through this archipelago. The San Juan Islands represent everything that makes cycling special: stunning scenery, manageable distances, and that perfect blend of challenge and accessibility that keeps you coming back for more.
What makes this route truly unique is the multi-modal adventure it offers. You’re not just cycling—you’re combining ferry travel with riding, creating a journey that feels more like an expedition than a day trip. Over the course of three to five days, you can explore three distinct islands, each with its own character, terrain, and rewards for those willing to explore on two wheels.
Route Overview: The San Juan Islands Triangle
Total Cycling Distance: 80-120 miles (depending on route choices)
Duration: 3-5 days recommended
Difficulty: Moderate (with challenging options on Orcas Island)
Terrain: Paved roads with varying elevation
Islands Covered: Lopez Island, Orcas Island, San Juan Island
The classic San Juan Islands cycling route begins with a ferry departure from Anacortes, Washington, roughly 90 miles north of Seattle. From there, cyclists typically island-hop in a counter-clockwise direction: Lopez Island first (the flattest and most beginner-friendly), then Orcas Island (the most challenging with Mount Constitution), and finally San Juan Island (moderate terrain with the charming town of Friday Harbor) before returning to the mainland.
This itinerary allows you to gradually build up to the more demanding terrain while experiencing the distinct personality of each island. The Washington State Ferry system makes this possible, with multiple daily sailings connecting the islands and the mainland throughout the summer season.
Best Time to Ride: June Through September
The Pacific Northwest is notorious for its rain, but the San Juan Islands enjoy a unique microclimate. Sitting in the rain shadow of the Olympic Mountains, they receive significantly less precipitation than Seattle or the mainland coast. That said, timing your visit correctly can make the difference between a soggy slog and a sun-drenched paradise.
June offers longer daylight hours and wildflowers in bloom, though temperatures can still be cool (55-65 degrees Fahrenheit) and the occasional rain shower is possible. Ferry traffic is manageable, and accommodations are easier to book.
July and August represent peak season with the warmest temperatures (70-80 degrees Fahrenheit), driest conditions, and busiest ferry schedules. Book ferries and accommodations well in advance—sometimes two to three months ahead for popular weekends. The upside: nearly guaranteed good weather and the islands at their most vibrant.
September is arguably the sweet spot for serious cyclists. Tourist crowds thin out, temperatures remain pleasant (60-70 degrees Fahrenheit), and the fall colors begin to emerge. Whale watching also hits its peak, as resident orca pods are frequently spotted in the waters between islands.
Island-by-Island Breakdown
Lopez Island: The Flat and Friendly Introduction
Cycling Distance: 20-30 miles (full island loop)
Difficulty: Easy to Moderate
Elevation Gain: Approximately 800 feet
Recommended Time: 1-2 days
Lopez Island has earned the nickname “Slowpez” for its laid-back vibe and gentle terrain. For cyclists, it’s the perfect introduction to San Juan Islands riding. The island loop follows a mix of quiet country roads past organic farms, artist studios, and stunning waterfront vistas. You’ll notice that drivers wave at cyclists here—it’s a Lopez tradition that captures the island’s welcoming spirit.
Key stops on Lopez include Shark Reef Sanctuary (a short hike to dramatic coastal views), Spencer Spit State Park (excellent for camping and beach access), and Lopez Village, the island’s tiny commercial center with a grocery store, bakery, and a few restaurants. The village is essential for resupply, as services are limited elsewhere.
The riding itself features gently rolling hills with no sustained climbs. First-time touring cyclists and families with older children will find Lopez manageable and rewarding. Experienced cyclists can complete the loop in a few hours, leaving time for beach exploration or a leisurely lunch.
Orcas Island: The Challenging Crown Jewel
Cycling Distance: 40-50 miles (including Mount Constitution)
Difficulty: Challenging
Elevation Gain: 3,000-4,500 feet
Recommended Time: 2-3 days
If Lopez is the gentle introduction, Orcas Island is the main event. Shaped like a horseshoe, Orcas features the most dramatic terrain in the San Juans, culminating in the legendary climb up Mount Constitution—the highest point in the islands at 2,409 feet.
The Mount Constitution climb begins from the main road near Moran State Park and ascends 2,400 feet over approximately five miles. The gradient averages around 9 percent but kicks up to 12-14 percent in places. It’s a proper climb by any standard, and on a loaded touring bike, it’s a genuine test. But the reward—a 360-degree panoramic view of the San Juans, the Cascades, and on clear days, both Mount Baker and Mount Rainier—is worth every pedal stroke.
Beyond the big climb, Orcas offers charming villages to explore. Eastsound, the island’s largest community, has excellent restaurants, a natural foods co-op for provisioning, and a genuine small-town atmosphere. Olga, on the island’s eastern lobe, features an artisan community and waterfront cafe that serves as a perfect mid-ride stop.
Important note: The roads on Orcas are narrower than Lopez, with more traffic during peak season. Experienced cyclists comfortable with sharing the road will fare best. Consider timing your rides to avoid the busiest midday hours when day-trippers are out in force.
San Juan Island: The Historic Moderate Finish
Cycling Distance: 30-40 miles (full island loop)
Difficulty: Moderate
Elevation Gain: 1,500-2,000 feet
Recommended Time: 1-2 days
San Juan Island offers the most developed infrastructure of the three main islands, centered around the bustling ferry terminal town of Friday Harbor. This makes it an excellent final stop before returning to the mainland—you can top off supplies, enjoy a proper restaurant meal, and experience the island’s rich history.
The cycling terrain sits between Lopez and Orcas in difficulty. Expect rolling hills throughout, with a few sustained climbs but nothing approaching Mount Constitution’s severity. The scenery is spectacular, particularly along the western shore where you’ll pass through American Camp (part of San Juan Island National Historical Park) and Lime Kiln Point State Park—one of the best land-based whale watching spots in the world.
History buffs will appreciate the Pig War history sites at both American and British Camps, remnants of a 19th-century boundary dispute between the United States and Britain that was resolved peacefully (the only casualty was indeed a pig). The English Camp area on the island’s north end is particularly scenic and features historic buildings, hiking trails, and waterfront picnic areas.
Ferry Logistics: The Key to Success
Understanding the Washington State Ferry system is essential for a successful San Juan Islands cycling trip. The ferries are bicycle-friendly, with dedicated loading areas and reasonable fares for cyclists. However, planning is required, especially during peak season.
Reservation System: The ferry from Anacortes to the San Juans accepts reservations, and during summer weekends, they’re essentially mandatory for vehicles. Cyclists, however, can generally walk on without reservations—a significant advantage. Arrive at the terminal 45-60 minutes before your desired sailing to ensure a spot.
Inter-Island Travel: Ferries between the islands operate on a more flexible basis. The key concept is “westbound” versus “eastbound”—ferries heading west (toward San Juan Island from the mainland) charge full fare, while eastbound sailings (back toward the mainland) are discounted or free between islands. Plan your route accordingly to maximize savings.
Schedule Planning: Print the ferry schedule before you leave, and don’t rely on cellular service in the islands—coverage can be spotty. The last ferry of the day is not something you want to miss, especially if you have accommodations booked on another island.
Bicycle Loading: Cyclists board before vehicles and disembark first—a genuine perk. Secure your bike in the designated area using the provided straps, and don’t leave valuables in panniers during the crossing.
Accommodation Options
The San Juan Islands offer accommodation options ranging from primitive camping to luxury resorts. Booking in advance during summer is essential.
Camping: Each island has at least one campground suitable for cyclists. Spencer Spit State Park on Lopez, Moran State Park on Orcas (home to the Mount Constitution climb), and San Juan County Park on San Juan Island all offer hiker/biker sites with lower fees and no reservations required—though arriving early ensures a spot. These sites typically include basic amenities: pit toilets, running water, and fire pits.
B&Bs and Inns: The islands excel at charming bed-and-breakfasts, many of which cater to cyclists. Expect comfortable rooms, substantial breakfasts, and local knowledge from hosts who know the best routes and hidden spots. Prices range from $150-300 per night during peak season.
Hotels: Friday Harbor offers the most conventional lodging options, including waterfront hotels and a few chain-style properties. Eastsound on Orcas also has several hotels and resorts. These are good choices for cyclists who prefer guaranteed amenities and don’t want to carry camping gear.
Safety Tips for Island Cycling
The San Juan Islands are relatively safe for cycling, but a few considerations will help ensure a trouble-free trip:
Limited Services: Once you leave the main villages, services are scarce. Carry sufficient water, food, and basic repair supplies. There are no bike shops on Lopez or in much of Orcas—Eastsound and Friday Harbor are your best bets for emergency repairs.
Ferry Schedule Awareness: Missing the last ferry can leave you stranded on an island without available accommodation. Build buffer time into your daily plans, and always know when that final sailing departs.
Traffic Patterns: The busiest roads are those connecting ferry terminals to main villages. Consider timing your riding to avoid the immediate post-ferry surge of vehicle traffic. Early morning and late afternoon often offer the quietest roads.
Wildlife Encounters: Deer are abundant on all three islands and occasionally wander into roadways. Stay alert, especially during dawn and dusk hours. You may also encounter seals, eagles, and if you’re lucky, orcas visible from shoreline viewpoints.
Weather Preparedness: Even in summer, conditions can shift quickly. Pack a lightweight rain jacket and arm warmers. Morning fog is common and can reduce visibility—lights are recommended year-round.
Gear Recommendations
Your gear list will depend on whether you’re camping or staying in accommodations, but certain items are essential for any San Juan Islands bike trip:
Bike Setup: A touring bike, gravel bike, or sturdy hybrid handles the island roads well. Pure road bikes work but benefit from tires at least 28mm wide for comfort. If you’re planning to climb Mount Constitution, ensure your gearing goes low enough—a 34-tooth rear cog is helpful for loaded climbing.
Repair Kit: Spare tubes, patch kit, tire levers, multi-tool, chain quick link, and a pump are essential. Consider a spoke wrench if you’re riding with panniers, as the extra weight can stress wheels.
Navigation: Download offline maps before departure. Cellular coverage is unreliable, and island roads can be confusing without guidance. Paper maps from the ferry terminal are also excellent backups.
Layers: Mornings and ferry crossings can be chilly even in summer. Pack a vest or light jacket that fits in a jersey pocket. Arm and leg warmers offer versatile temperature management.
Sun Protection: The maritime environment can be deceptively sunny. Quality sunglasses, sunscreen, and a cycling cap under your helmet prevent burns and eyestrain.
Connecting Your Adventure: Pacific Northwest Cycling Routes
The San Juan Islands route pairs beautifully with other Pacific Northwest cycling adventures. Many cyclists combine it with a ride along the legendary Pacific Coast Highway, creating an extended tour that showcases both island and coastal riding. The contrast between the islands’ intimate roads and the Highway’s sweeping ocean vistas offers a comprehensive Pacific Northwest experience.
For those with more time, the Seattle to Portland route makes an excellent addition to a San Juan Islands trip. You can ride from Seattle to Anacortes as a warmup before the island adventure, then return south along the coast for an epic multi-week journey through the best cycling the region has to offer.
Final Thoughts: Why This Route Belongs on Your Bucket List
The San Juan Islands represent Pacific Northwest cycling at its finest. The combination of ferry travel and riding creates a genuine adventure, while the manageable distances and varied terrain accommodate cyclists of different abilities and ambitions. Whether you’re seeking a challenging climb up Mount Constitution, a gentle spin around Lopez Island’s farm roads, or simply the pleasure of exploring by bicycle in one of North America’s most beautiful settings, this route delivers.
I’ve returned to these islands three times now, each trip revealing new discoveries: a hidden beach, a family-run farm stand, a perfect sunset viewed from a ferry deck. That’s the real magic of the San Juan Islands—they reward repeated visits while remaining fresh and surprising. Pack your panniers, book your ferry, and discover for yourself why this island-hopping adventure ranks among the Pacific Northwest’s cycling treasures.
About the Author: This guide was written by a cycling enthusiast with over 15 years of experience touring routes across North America, Europe, and beyond. All routes described have been personally ridden and verified for accuracy.
