The Ultimate Guide to Cycling the C&O Canal Towpath
The first time I rolled my touring bike onto the C&O Canal Towpath at Mile Marker Zero in Georgetown, I had no idea that the next five days would fundamentally change how I think about bicycle touring. Standing there with 184.5 miles of crushed limestone stretching before me toward Cumberland, Maryland, I felt that electric mix of anticipation and nerves that every long-distance cyclist knows. Four years and six complete trips later, I can confidently say that the Chesapeake and Ohio Canal Towpath remains one of the finest car-free cycling experiences in North America.
Whether you’re planning a weekend getaway, a week-long adventure, or simply curious about what makes this historic route so special, this comprehensive guide draws from hundreds of miles of personal experience to help you plan an unforgettable journey along America’s longest continuous hiking and biking trail.
Route Overview: What to Expect on the C&O Canal Towpath
The C&O Canal Towpath stretches 184.5 miles from Georgetown in Washington, D.C., to Cumberland, Maryland, following the path that mules once walked while towing canal boats loaded with coal and lumber. Today, this National Historical Park offers cyclists an uninterrupted corridor through some of the Mid-Atlantic’s most stunning scenery.
Key Route Statistics
- Total Distance: 184.5 miles (296.9 km)
- Starting Point: Georgetown, Washington, D.C. (Mile Marker 0)
- Ending Point: Cumberland, Maryland (Mile Marker 184.5)
- Surface: Crushed limestone and packed dirt
- Elevation Gain: Approximately 605 feet total (heading west to east)
- Difficulty: Easy to moderate (flat terrain, variable surface conditions)
- Average Completion Time: 4-7 days for most cyclists
One of the towpath’s greatest appeals is its accessibility. With virtually no hills to speak of, this route welcomes cyclists of all fitness levels. I’ve ridden alongside retirees on their first multi-day tour and experienced ultra-endurance athletes using it as training. The gentle grade, which rises only 605 feet over nearly 185 miles, means you can focus on the scenery rather than your heart rate.
Best Time to Ride: Planning Your Seasonal Adventure
After cycling the towpath in every season except winter’s deepest months, I’ve developed strong opinions about timing your trip for optimal conditions.
Spring (April to Early June)
Verdict: Excellent, with caveats
Spring brings wildflowers, migrating birds, and comfortable temperatures in the 55-75 degree range. The forest canopy creates a green tunnel effect that’s nothing short of magical. However, spring also brings rain and potential flooding. The Potomac River can overtop portions of the towpath after heavy rains, sometimes closing sections for days. Check the National Park Service website and the C&O Canal Trust’s trail conditions page before departing.
Fall (September to November)
Verdict: Prime time
Fall is universally considered the best season for the towpath. Stable weather, lower humidity, fewer insects, and spectacular foliage make September through mid-November ideal. The crowds thin after Labor Day, and the hiker-biker campsites feel more intimate. Water levels are typically lower, making the entire trail more reliable.
Summer (July to August)
Verdict: Challenging but doable
Summer means heat, humidity, and bugs. Lots of bugs. If you must ride in summer, start early each day, carry extra water, and bring serious insect repellent. The tree canopy provides welcome shade, but afternoon temperatures can exceed 90 degrees with oppressive humidity.
Detailed Segment Breakdown: Mile by Mile Guide
Segment 1: Georgetown to Harpers Ferry (61 Miles)
This first segment offers the most varied experience on the entire trail. You’ll start amid the bustle of Georgetown, passing joggers and commuter cyclists before the urban landscape gradually yields to suburbs, then farmland, and finally the dramatic scenery of the Potomac River corridor.
Mile 0-14 (Georgetown to Great Falls): The most heavily trafficked section, this segment is popular with day-trippers and local cyclists. The surface is generally good, though it can be crowded on weekends. Great Falls offers your first major stopping point, with a visitor center, restrooms, and stunning views of the powerful rapids.
Mile 14-35 (Great Falls to Point of Rocks): The trail quiets considerably past Great Falls. You’ll pass through White’s Ferry (Mile 35.5), one of the last remaining ferry crossings on the Potomac. The surface here can be rougher, with more exposed tree roots and occasional muddy patches after rain.
Mile 35-61 (Point of Rocks to Harpers Ferry): This stretch rewards you with increasingly dramatic river views as you approach the confluence of the Potomac and Shenandoah Rivers. The approach to Harpers Ferry is genuinely thrilling, with cliffs rising on either side and the historic town visible across the water.
Segment 2: Harpers Ferry to Hancock (61 Miles)
The middle section of the towpath delivers some of the route’s finest cycling. The surface tends to be better maintained, the scenery is consistently spectacular, and you’ll encounter many of the canal’s best-preserved historic features.
Mile 61-79 (Harpers Ferry to Williamsport): Leaving Harpers Ferry, you’ll notice the path becoming more remote. Antietam Creek Aqueduct at Mile 69 is worth a stop, a beautifully preserved three-arch stone structure. Williamsport offers the first significant resupply opportunity since Harpers Ferry, with restaurants and a small grocery store within walking distance of the trail.
Mile 79-99 (Williamsport to Big Pool): This segment features several impressive aqueducts and the towpath’s finest lock concentrations. The landscape becomes hillier on either side, though the path itself remains flat. Big Pool, a natural widening of the canal, is one of the few spots where you’ll see significant open water.
Mile 99-122 (Big Pool to Hancock): The approach to Hancock takes you through increasingly rural terrain. Hancock itself is a cyclist-friendly town with multiple lodging options, restaurants, and bike shops. It’s an ideal halfway point for those planning a leisurely weeklong trip.
Segment 3: Hancock to Cumberland (62.5 Miles)
The final segment contains the trail’s most celebrated feature: the Paw Paw Tunnel. It also tends to be the most remote, with longer distances between services and more variable trail conditions.
Mile 122-155 (Hancock to Paw Paw Tunnel): The trail becomes noticeably wilder here. You’ll ride through dense forests with limited cell service. The Paw Paw Tunnel at Mile 155 is the absolute highlight, a 3,118-foot engineering marvel that cuts through a mountain rather than following the river’s six-mile bend. Bring a headlamp; the tunnel is pitch black in the middle.
Mile 155-184.5 (Paw Paw Tunnel to Cumberland): The final 30 miles are often the most challenging due to rougher trail conditions. However, the scenery is exceptional, with the Potomac Narrows offering dramatic cliff views. The trail terminates at the Western Maryland Railway Station in Cumberland, which now houses the C&O Canal Visitor Center and the trailhead for the Great Allegheny Passage.
Historic Highlights: Canal Heritage Along the Route
The C&O Canal operated from 1831 to 1924, and its remnants transform this ride into a journey through American industrial history. Understanding what you’re seeing adds immeasurable richness to the experience.
The Lock System
Seventy-four lift locks raised boats a total of 605 feet from Georgetown to Cumberland. Many remain remarkably intact. Lock 33 near Harpers Ferry and Lock 44 near Williamsport are particularly well-preserved. Each lock has an interpretive sign explaining the technology and the lives of the lock keepers who lived alongside their charges.
The Aqueducts
Eleven stone aqueducts carried the canal over major streams and rivers. The Monocacy Aqueduct (Mile 42), the largest on the canal at 560 feet, is an architectural masterpiece. The Catoctin Aqueduct (Mile 51) was painstakingly restored in 2010 and is now a centerpiece of the route.
The Paw Paw Tunnel
No feature captures the canal’s ambition like the Paw Paw Tunnel. Construction took 14 years (1836-1850) and cost the equivalent of millions in modern dollars. Walking or riding through its cool, dark interior with water dripping from the brick-lined ceiling is genuinely awe-inspiring. The tunnel’s construction was so expensive and time-consuming that it nearly bankrupted the canal company.
Accommodation Options: Where to Sleep Along the Trail
Hiker-Biker Campsites
The National Park Service maintains free, primitive campsites approximately every five miles along the entire towpath. These sites include a portable toilet, picnic table, and hand pump for water (seasonally available; always treat water or bring a filter). No reservations are needed, and they operate on a first-come, first-served basis.
After dozens of nights at these sites, my favorites include:
- Antietam Creek (Mile 69.4): Beautiful riverside setting near Harpers Ferry
- Cacapon Junction (Mile 133.4): Remote and peaceful, excellent for star gazing
- Sorrel Ridge (Mile 163.4): Dramatic setting near Paw Paw Tunnel
Town Services
For those preferring a roof overhead, several trail towns offer lodging:
- Harpers Ferry (Mile 61): Multiple B&Bs and motels, excellent restaurants
- Shepherdstown (Mile 72, 1 mile off trail): Charming college town with diverse dining
- Williamsport (Mile 99): Basic motels and restaurants
- Hancock (Mile 124): Several motels, restaurants, and a bike shop
- Cumberland (Mile 184.5): Full range of services and lodging options
Safety Tips and Trail Conditions
While the C&O Canal Towpath is generally safe, conditions vary significantly along its length. Here’s what experienced riders need to know:
Surface Conditions
The trail surface ranges from smooth packed limestone to rough dirt with exposed roots. Conditions are typically best in the middle sections (Miles 60-120) and most challenging at either end, particularly the final 30 miles approaching Cumberland. After rain, expect muddy sections and standing water.
Flooding
The Potomac River floods regularly, and sections of the towpath can be underwater for days after heavy rain. The most flood-prone sections are near the river’s major bends. Always check current conditions before departing and have a backup plan.
General Safety
- Carry a headlamp for the Paw Paw Tunnel
- Bring more water than you think you need, especially in summer
- Cell service is unreliable, particularly west of Hancock
- Wildlife encounters are common; give deer, snakes, and occasional bears wide berth
- Tell someone your itinerary and expected check-in times
Gear Recommendations for the Towpath
The right equipment makes an enormous difference on the towpath’s variable surfaces. Here’s what I recommend based on extensive experience:
Tire Selection
This is the most important equipment consideration. Run tires at least 32mm wide, and 38-42mm is even better. Skinny road tires will not handle the crushed stone and occasional rougher sections. I personally ride 40mm gravel tires and wouldn’t consider anything narrower.
Essential Gear
- Fenders: Absolutely essential. Puddles are unavoidable, and without fenders, you’ll be covered in grit within minutes.
- Headlamp: Required for the Paw Paw Tunnel, useful for early morning starts
- Water filtration: Hand pumps at campsites may be non-functional; always have backup
- Flat repair kit: Bring multiple tubes; thorns and debris are common
- Rack and panniers: The trail surface is too rough for comfortable riding with a heavy backpack
Connecting to the Great Allegheny Passage
For many cyclists, the C&O Canal Towpath is just the beginning. At Cumberland, the trail connects seamlessly to the Great Allegheny Passage (GAP), creating a continuous 335-mile car-free corridor all the way to Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania.
Riding both trails together represents one of the finest long-distance cycling experiences in the world. The combined DC-to-Pittsburgh route covers 519.5 miles through five states and offers an extraordinary diversity of scenery, from the nation’s capital through Civil War battlefields, over the Appalachian Mountains, and into the heart of steel country.
If you’re considering the combined route, plan for 7-14 days depending on your pace and allow extra time for the GAP’s more significant elevation changes.
Final Thoughts: Why the C&O Canal Towpath Belongs on Your Cycling Bucket List
After thousands of miles on touring routes across North America, the C&O Canal Towpath remains special to me. It’s accessible enough for beginners yet engaging enough for experienced cyclists. Its history adds depth that pure scenery alone cannot provide. And its connection to the Great Allegheny Passage creates one of the world’s great multi-day cycling adventures.
Whether you ride it in a single ambitious push or return year after year as I have, the towpath rewards every mile with beauty, history, and the simple pleasure of car-free cycling through the heart of America. Pack your panniers, pump up those wide tires, and prepare for an unforgettable journey along the banks of the Potomac.
Have questions about planning your C&O Canal Towpath adventure? Drop a comment below, and I’ll share advice based on my six complete trips along this remarkable route.
