Introduction: Where Cherry Blossoms Meet Lake Michigan Breezes
The moment I crested the first hill outside Traverse City and saw the endless rows of cherry trees stretching toward the glittering waters of Grand Traverse Bay, I understood why cyclists from across the country make the pilgrimage to Michigan’s Leelanau Peninsula. This wasn’t just another scenic route—it was a sensory journey through one of America’s most beautiful agricultural landscapes.
Having ridden through wine country in California, the rolling hills of Vermont, and countless coastal routes, I can say without hesitation that the Cherry Country Wine Loop offers something uniquely special. The combination of world-class wineries, working cherry orchards, stunning Great Lakes vistas, and the dramatic dunes of Sleeping Bear creates an unforgettable cycling experience that rewards riders of all abilities.
Over three consecutive summers, I’ve explored every mile of this peninsula, documenting the best routes, rest stops, and hidden gems. This comprehensive guide shares everything you need to plan your own Leelanau cycling adventure.
Route Overview: The Cherry Country Wine Loop
The complete Leelanau Peninsula loop covers approximately 60-80 miles depending on your chosen route variations. The terrain is characterized by rolling hills with occasional steep climbs, earning it a moderate difficulty rating. Most cyclists complete the full loop in a single challenging day, though I strongly recommend spreading it over two days to fully appreciate the scenery and sample the local offerings.
Key Route Statistics
- Total Distance: 60-80 miles (depending on route variations)
- Elevation Gain: 2,500-3,500 feet
- Difficulty: Moderate (some challenging climbs)
- Road Surface: Paved roads with wide shoulders on main routes
- Traffic Level: Light to moderate (heavier in summer tourist season)
- Recommended Time: 1-2 days
The route winds through cherry orchards that produce over 75% of the nation’s tart cherries, past more than 25 wineries, and along the shores of both Grand Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan. The rolling terrain never lets you forget you’re cycling through glacially-carved landscape, with views that change around every bend.
Best Time to Ride the Leelanau Peninsula
Each season brings a different character to this route, and I’ve experienced the peninsula in all its seasonal glory. Here’s my breakdown of the optimal riding windows:
May: Cherry Blossom Season
Late May transforms the peninsula into a sea of delicate white and pink blossoms. The National Cherry Festival draws crowds to Traverse City, but the rural roads remain peaceful. Temperatures typically range from 55-70°F, perfect for cycling. This is my personal favorite time to ride—the visual spectacle of millions of blooming cherry trees against the deep blue bay is simply breathtaking.
July-August: Peak Fruit Season
Summer brings warm temperatures (75-85°F), longer daylight hours, and the opportunity to sample fresh cherries directly from farm stands. The peninsula buzzes with activity, and you’ll share the roads with more tourists. Start early morning rides to beat both the heat and traffic. Wine tasting rooms are in full swing, and outdoor dining options abound.
September-October: Harvest Season
Fall riding on the Leelanau Peninsula is exceptional. The vineyards turn golden and crimson, temperatures cool to ideal cycling conditions (55-70°F), and the summer crowds thin considerably. Wine harvest activities add festive atmosphere, and many wineries offer special harvest events. October brings stunning fall foliage that rivals New England.
Detailed Segment Breakdown
Segment 1: Traverse City to Suttons Bay (15 miles)
Begin your journey in Traverse City, the gateway to wine country. Head north on Peninsula Drive (M-37), which offers a dedicated bike lane for the first several miles. The road hugs the eastern shore of West Grand Traverse Bay, providing stunning water views.
The terrain starts gently but introduces rolling hills as you approach Old Mission Peninsula. Don’t miss the scenic overlook at Chateau Grand Traverse, where you can catch your breath and take in panoramic views of both bay arms.
Continuing north, you’ll pass through the charming village of Suttons Bay—the perfect first rest stop. This artsy community offers excellent coffee shops, boutique shopping, and waterfront parks. The Suttons Bay Ciders tasting room provides a refreshing break for cider lovers.
Key Points of Interest:
- Chateau Grand Traverse Winery
- 45 North Vineyard & Winery
- Suttons Bay village shops and cafes
- Marina Park beach access
Segment 2: Suttons Bay to Northport (12 miles)
This segment takes you deeper into cherry country. Highway M-22 north from Suttons Bay winds through some of the peninsula’s most productive orchards. In late May, the blooming trees create a tunnel of blossoms; in July, you can stop at roadside stands for fresh-picked cherries.
The terrain becomes more challenging with several notable climbs, but the rewards are worth every pedal stroke. Views of Leelanau State Park and the surrounding countryside unfold as you gain elevation.
Northport marks the northern tip of the peninsula and offers a welcoming atmosphere for cyclists. The historic downtown features local restaurants, a classic marina, and the Northport Brewing Company for craft beer enthusiasts.
Segment 3: Northport to Leland via Lake Leelanau (18 miles)
The western route from Northport to Leland follows the shores of Lake Leelanau, one of Michigan’s most scenic inland lakes. This segment offers a mix of lakeside riding and vineyard views.
Multiple wineries dot this stretch, including Black Star Farms and Bel Lago Vineyard. The rolling hills continue, with a particularly memorable climb offering views across the lake to the surrounding hills.
Leland, known as “Fishtown,” is a must-stop destination. The historic commercial fishing village features weathered shanties converted to shops, fresh smoked fish, and the ferry dock to the Manitou Islands. Plan to spend at least an hour exploring this unique waterfront community.
Segment 4: Leland to Sleeping Bear Dunes Area (15 miles)
The final major segment takes you along M-22 toward Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore. This stretch is widely considered one of America’s most scenic drives, and it’s equally spectacular on two wheels.
The road winds through forests and past dramatic dune overlooks. Stop at the Empire Bluff Trail for a short hike to views of South Manitou Island and the famous Sleeping Bear Dune. The Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive offers an optional 7-mile loop with multiple overlooks (note: the climb back out is challenging but rewarding).
The village of Empire serves as a gateway to the national lakeshore and offers cyclist-friendly services including bike repair and rental shops.
Wine Country and Cherry Farm Highlights
The Leelanau Peninsula is home to over 25 wineries clustered in one of the most northerly wine regions in the continental United States. The unique microclimate created by the surrounding Great Lakes produces exceptional cool-climate varietals.
Must-Visit Wineries for Cyclists
- Black Star Farms: Beautiful estate with farm-to-table cafe perfect for lunch
- L. Mawby Vineyards: Renowned sparkling wines in a welcoming atmosphere
- Chateau Fontaine: Small family operation with excellent Pinot Grigio
- Good Harbor Vineyards: Known for Riesling, with scenic picnic grounds
- Bel Lago Vineyard: Italian-style wines with Lake Leelanau views
Cherry Farm Stands and U-Pick Operations
During fruit season (late June through August), roadside farm stands offer fresh cherries, cherry products, and other local produce. Many farms welcome cyclists and provide a welcome break from the saddle. Look for signs advertising sweet and tart cherries, cherry pies, and dried cherries—the perfect cycling snack.
Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore
This National Geographic-designated “Most Beautiful Place in America” deserves extended exploration. The dunes rise 450 feet above Lake Michigan, created by glacial activity over 10,000 years ago. Key attractions include:
- The Dune Climb (challenging but unforgettable)
- Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive
- Glen Haven historic village
- Pristine Lake Michigan beaches
Accommodation Options
Planning where to stay depends on whether you’re completing the loop in one day or spreading it across multiple days.
Traverse City
As the region’s largest city, Traverse City offers the widest range of accommodations from budget motels to luxury resorts. The downtown area provides easy access to restaurants and the TART Trail network. Recommended for cyclists: hotels near the bay trail for easy morning departures.
Suttons Bay
This charming village offers bed and breakfasts and boutique inns ideal for a mid-route overnight stay. The Korner Kottage and Black Star Farms Inn cater to visitors seeking a quieter experience.
Leland
Fishtown’s proximity to beaches and restaurants makes Leland an excellent base. Several waterfront cottages and inns provide comfortable accommodations with character.
Camping
For cyclists seeking an immersive experience, camping options abound:
- Leelanau State Park: Rustic camping at the peninsula’s tip
- Sleeping Bear Dunes Campground: D.H. Day campground offers sites near the dunes
- Private campgrounds: Several options near Traverse City and Empire
Safety Tips for Cycling the Leelanau Peninsula
Managing Tourist Traffic
Summer brings significant tourist traffic, particularly on M-22 near Sleeping Bear Dunes. To ride safely:
- Start early morning (before 8 AM) to avoid peak traffic
- Wear bright, visible clothing
- Use front and rear lights even during daylight
- Consider weekday riding to avoid weekend crowds
- Pull off completely when stopping for photos
Winding Road Considerations
M-22 and connecting roads feature numerous curves with limited sight lines. Drivers may not expect cyclists around blind corners. Ride defensively, stay to the right, and be prepared for vehicles crossing the center line on tight curves.
Weather Awareness
Lake Michigan creates rapidly changing weather conditions. Afternoon thunderstorms can develop quickly in summer. Always carry rain gear and monitor forecasts. The temperature difference between inland and lakeside areas can be significant—pack layers.
Gear Recommendations
Based on my extensive experience riding this route, here’s the essential gear list:
Bike Setup
- Road or gravel bike with gearing suitable for climbing (compact crankset recommended)
- Tires: 28-32mm for road; 35-40mm if exploring gravel options
- Hydration system: Two bottles minimum; hydration pack for hot days
- Repair kit: Tubes, tire levers, multi-tool, pump
Clothing and Accessories
- Layerable clothing (lake breezes can be cool even in summer)
- Rain jacket (afternoon storms are common)
- Arm warmers and leg warmers for spring/fall riding
- Sunscreen and sunglasses (essential for lake glare)
- Cycling gloves for comfort on longer rides
Navigation and Safety
- GPS device or smartphone with offline maps
- Front and rear lights (USB rechargeable recommended)
- Emergency contact information and ID
- Cash for farm stands and smaller wineries
Connecting Routes: Explore More of the Midwest
The Leelanau Peninsula serves as an excellent starting point for exploring Michigan’s extensive cycling infrastructure. Consider combining your visit with these nearby routes:
- TART Trails Network: Over 60 miles of paved trails connecting Traverse City and surrounding communities
- Old Mission Peninsula: A 35-mile out-and-back route through more wine country
- M-22 Complete Loop: Extended 116-mile route circling the entire peninsula
- Tunnel of Trees: Scenic route near Petoskey, two hours north
For more Midwest cycling adventures, explore our guides to scenic routes throughout the Great Lakes region, from Wisconsin’s Door County to Ohio’s wine country.
Final Thoughts
The Leelanau Peninsula Cherry Country Wine Loop represents everything that makes Midwest cycling exceptional: stunning natural beauty, agricultural heritage, welcoming communities, and roads that seem designed for two-wheeled exploration. Whether you’re drawn by the cherry blossoms of May, the warm summer days perfect for wine tasting, or the spectacular fall colors of October, this route delivers an experience that will bring you back season after season.
Pack your panniers, plan your winery stops, and prepare for one of America’s most rewarding cycling experiences. The Leelanau Peninsula awaits.
Last updated: January 2026. Route information verified through personal riding experience and local cycling community feedback. For current road conditions and event schedules, contact the Traverse City Tourism office.